Words and Photos: Indi Blake
Western Anatolia in modern-day Turkey is home to one of the richest and most influential histories on earth. About six thousand years ago, inhabitants of this area were closely tied to Mesopotamian peoples who pioneered some of the earliest known civilizations known to science. Since then, crop cultivation, metallurgy and social order spread, transforming the area into an important hub for trade and cultural influence. The empires, religions and historical figures that fought over and shaped these lands represent some of the most exalted of all time. The region’s significance is no accident, serving as a bridge both culturally and geographically between Asia and Europe while at the same time extending into the Aegean Sea and ultimately granting access to the Mediterranean. It is no wonder that this region acted as both the geographic and cultural center of the ancient world for well over a thousand years.
Starting around 1,200 BCE, Ionian and Attic Greek colonists began venturing into the Aegean Sea, establishing villages along the Anatolian coast. At one of these settlements, what would start as a humble outpost would eventually grow into one of the most renowned archaeological sites in the world: Ephesus. According to legend, the original settlement of Ephesus was founded by Androklos, a prince of Athens who was told by the Oracle of Delphi that “a fish and a boar will show you the way.” Inspired by the sight of a boar bolting out of some nearby bushes when a fried fish fell out of a pan, Androklos decided that his search was over, choosing to establish his city there on the spot. More recent, less substantiated legends tell that Ephesus was founded by a tribe of female warriors called the Amazons, who named the city after their queen. The exact historical details surrounding Ephesus’s beginnings are murky. Regardless, the settlement’s ideal placement, including its proximity to the Cayster River, the fertile plains surrounding it, and the ample reserves of high-quality marble in the hills nearby, provided the essential elements for a future thriving city.
True to their reputation for meticulous urban planning, the early Greek engineers who designed the layout of Ephesus included wide avenues in a near-perfect grid neatly aligned with colonnades that showed off a blend of functionality and aesthetic appeal. The city’s efficient drainage system ensured that the streets remained passable even during heavy rainfall. Throughout the city, extensive networks of aqueducts transported many thousands of liters of freshwater per day to public baths, crop fields, latrines and fountains.
The city flourished, and the population grew, fueled by prosperous farming and a vigorous appetite for trade. Locals began worshiping the Greek God Artemis, revered as the deity of fertility, nature, and protection. With their newfound wealth, the Ephesians built an immense temple in her honor. The first iteration was completed on an already hallowed site that may have been used for worship as far back as the bronze age. Dubbed The Temple of Artemis, the structure was colossal in scale, with its dimensions dwarfing some of even the most iconic structures in antiquity. It featured an astonishing 127 marble columns, each soaring to a height of over 60 feet (approximately 19 meters). Its dimensions of 350 by 180 feet made its footprint many times greater than that of the Pantheon. In time, the temple would be hailed as one of the seven ancient wonders of the world and would attract onlookers from across the world drawn in by stories of its splendor.
Eager to get a share of the spoils of the new city, a neighboring group called the Cimmerians razed the city in 650 BCE. Their short-lived invasion would be followed by an era marked by the rule of brutal tyrants in the city. The inhabitants of Ephesus famously rose up against these rulers and implemented a new order with power given to a council. This act would lay the cultural groundwork for the city’s eventual progressive reputation. In 560 BCE, the Lydians overthrew the city, and a new leader was chosen. Under his rule, the Temple of Artemis was rebuilt after floods had damaged it years before. The Lydians were an ancient group that had frequented the area for many centuries. It is widely accepted that around this time, the Lydians invented coinage, setting into motion a standard that would become popular around the world and persist until this day.
To the east, a Persian king known as Cyrus began an ambitious expansion campaign. Cyrus’s conquests eventually overthrew many of the Ionian Greek cities along the Anatolian coast, including Ephesus. Life in the city was allowed to continue largely uninterrupted, though a new system of heavy taxation was levied on the population.
In 334 BCE, a legendary Macedonian king named Alexander the Great launched an aggressive military campaign to strike back at and conquer the Persian Empire. His forces swiftly advanced through the Anatolian peninsula, including the territories that had been under Persian control, such as Ephesus. Following the Persian defeat, Alexander’s massive new empire would spread Hellenistic influence that ushered in a period of cultural interchange. In Ephesus, the Temple of Artemis, which had again been severely damaged, this time by fire, was restored, and although it never fully regained its former glory, it remained a prominent religious site.
During this time, Ephesus became a cultural and intellectual center in the Hellenistic world. The city attracted scholars, philosophers, and artists who engaged in philosophical discussions and artistic pursuits. Under Hellenistic rule, Ephesus saw a new surge in construction and urban development. New monumental structures and public buildings were erected. The city’s theaters, including the Great Theater, were expanded and hosted dramatic performances and musical events.
In 129 BCE, the city of Ephesus was absorbed into the expanding Roman Empire. The Romans recognized the significance of the city as a major trading outpost and political power. They soon declared the city the capital of their Asian province and invested heavily into its growth. It was during this time that the city reached its zenith, thought at one time to be the home of between 200,000 and 250,000 people. Modern estimates have recently called these figures into question, suggesting a more modest figure. Even with the adjusted estimate, Ephesus would still rival other major cities in the Roman Empire, such as Antioch, Corinth, Alexandria and Rome itself. The population at Ephesus was not only numerous but diverse and multicultural, too, including Romans, Greeks, Jews and Syrians. This cultural diversity contributed to the city’s cosmopolitan character.
During the Roman era, the city was again expanded. The already massive amphitheater was adapted to accommodate up to 25,000 spectators, making it one of the largest in the ancient world. The 66 tiers of semi-circular stone seats concentrically surrounding the stage offered an unobstructed view of events, which now included gladiatorial contests in addition to the dramatic plays, musical concerts and political speeches it had hosted before. It is said that the theater’s acoustics were so finely tuned that even a whisper on the stage could be heard by those in the highest seats.
In addition to the expansion of the amphitheater, a great Library called the Library of Celsus was erected. It acted as a repository for important texts from around the world and to support the cultural and intellectual life of the city. The library was one of the most iconic and impressive structures of its time, known not only for its architectural grandeur but also for its extensive collection. A massive façade considered a masterpiece of Roman architecture featured two stories with a central portal framed by four pairs of Corinthian columns and was adorned with detailed statues and reliefs. Unfortunately, the library’s vast collection of scrolls and books was nearly all destroyed sometime in the third century. Works by Greek philosophers like Plato, Aristotle, Socrates, as well as legal texts and political treatises, were likely among the collection before its demise.
Ephesus played a vital role in the early spread of Christianity and is prominently mentioned in the New Testament, particularly in the biblical book of Acts and the letters of St. Paul. The city’s strategic location and modern atmosphere made it a center for Christian missionary activity and the establishment of Christian communities. Several prominent figures of the early church visited or lived in Ephesus, such as Paul, John, and Mary, the mother of Jesus. Paul spent about three years in Ephesus preaching the gospel, performing miracles, and establishing a strong Christian community. John is believed to have settled in Ephesus after the destruction of Jerusalem in 70 AD. He wrote his gospel and his three epistles from there, and also received the visions recorded in the book of Revelation. According to tradition, John took care of Mary in Ephesus until her death. Like many early Christian communities, Ephesus faced periods of persecution. The Roman authorities intermittently targeted Christians for their refusal to worship the Roman gods.
Many Christians make a pilgrimage to Ephesus to witness the remains of prominent religious sites. The crumbling stone house where Mary, the mother of Jesus, is believed to have spent her last years with John stands on a hill near the city. Worshipers also visit the cave of St. Paul, where Paul is said to have stayed and preached during his three-year ministry in the city. Additionally, the Basilica of St. John remains, a large church built over the tomb of St. John the Apostle, who is believed to have lived and died in Ephesus.
Around the second and third centuries CE, Ephesus began to face a series of crises that would mark the beginning of a decline of the great city. Over the centuries, the sedimentary deposits of the Cayster River silted up the old harbor of Ephesus, creating marshes and swamps that caused malaria and other tropical diseases to proliferate. The effect was significant enough that, effectively, the coastline moved farther west leaving Ephesus inland. Because the city’s economy was heavily dependent on trade, a diminished harbor hindered its ability to maintain its status as a major commercial center in the Roman Empire. To make matters worse, sometime around 614 CE, the Sasanians from modern-day Iran raided the city, causing serious damage to infrastructure and many deaths. The city’s population and prosperity both waned significantly during this period.
Years dragged on, Ephesus, still under the control of the Byzantine Empire, was again invaded, this time by Seljuk Turks who conquered the city in the 11th century CE. By this time, it was merely a small village nestled in the skeleton of the once great city. Finally, in 1425, when the Ottomans took over the region, Ephesus had essentially been forgotten. Its once proud structures are now overgrown and crumbling.
Today, Ephesus is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that attracts nearly a million visitors every year. The site spans approximately 88 hectares and boasts a wealth of ancient structures and monuments. While tourism plays a pivotal role in Ephesus’ modern identity, many people make the journey as a religious pilgrimage destination that draws countless Christians seeking a spiritual connection to the past.
Ephesus was not only a crucible of human creativity but also a melting pot of cultures and ideas. It bore witness to the march of empires, from the Lydians and Persians to the Greeks and Romans, each leaving their imprint on its soil. Ephesus faced the inexorable march of time and the ebb and flow of fortunes trading hands. The silting of its harbor, the invasions of marauding tribes, and the changing tides of trade routes led to its gradual decline. It stands as an archaeological wonder, a city frozen in time, inviting modern travelers to wander through its ancient streets and contemplate the enduring legacy of human ingenuity and resilience.
